Junya Watanabe’s exploration of shapes pushed the collection into Metropolis-hinted tones. Vinyl hairpieces looked like records while plastered layers of circles and squares produced a hypnotic effect. Colors remained vivid and en point with Pop-Art culture. While some of these structures won’t let you fit through doors, they make worthy art installations.
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Haider Ackermann knows how to swath a woman in soft luxury. He kept the silhouettes languid and relaxed, toning down the volume even more with the tepid color scheme. Taupes and silky lilacs fluttered by in layers that slid down the body rather than protrude voluminously. His only loud detail were the jet-black vinyl pants, but the contrast paired so effortlessly with flowing transparent tops that the dream-like serenity calmly continued.
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Fun, playful colors and cartoonish prints are Tsumori Chisato’s calling. Wavy ruffles and geode-reminiscent images unraveled on loose silhouettes, introducing the life aquatic from a Zissou perspective. Coral-shaped 3D structures fluttered by, resembling an underwater garden.
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David Koma’s creative debut at Mugler was a tabula rasa for the line, even though Koma’s vision is a perfect fit for the curve-hugging drama Mugler represents. Koma didn’t miss a beat with almost solely monochromatic lineup. Up-to-the-hip slits and clever cutouts had sex appeal without introducing indecency. Meanwhile, reflective trims added sleekness and modernity.
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Viktor & Rolf
Victor & Rolf’s Excellent Adventure in Sportswear. Maybe that’s a little too ambitious as a title, but the duo has definitely ventured into exploring new terrains. While the voluminous gathered tops don’t look like a practical fit for a day involving a gym stop, there are prime pickings for shorts, leggings and even a re-imagined tank top. A muted cartoon flower print joined a primarily white palette and mesh fabrics to sell the idea of unobtrusive ease further.
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The choice to go with a variety of heavy and light fabrics for spring doesn’t seem too obtrusive when the silhouettes are so light and comfortable. It’s a surprise that the looks appear so unrestricted considering the complicated structure and impeccable tailoring technique. The shapes and textures didn’t battle each other in any of the ensembles. Instead, the dark hues pulled the materials and techniques together into a cohesive line.
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Deep V cut tailored suit looks set the tone for the show, luxurious yet slightly lewd. The power-player woman isn’t afraid to be a little bit sleazy with her image in Acne’s world, one in which Johnny Johansson experiments with fusion of luxury and sex. Sheer and revealing tops, dresses in bright hues and some Raquel Dias patterns you wouldn’t want to meet your mom wearing made the collection unrealistic for the luxury martin and too stiff for the hipster crowd.
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Prints of Apollo and Aphrodite statue busts adorned loose, sporty menswear-inspired silhouettes consisting primarily of separates. The looks were then re-created with a tamer monochrome palette free from Grecian influence with the same shapes.
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A watercolor print and soft muted hues set the tone for an incredibly young and fresh collection aimed at the romantic at heart. Loose silhouettes billowed just enough to suggest freedom without adding bulk, and careful pleating introduced a hint of schoolgirl charm.
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Westwood’s love for the historic goes beyond simple re-interpretation. She dives head on into the drama of the period, amping up the volume with rich fabrics and vibrant colors. She’s not shy when it comes to expressing her opinions through clothing, calling her collection “End Ecocide” in an effort to honor “children in our world.” A playful mix of signature silhouettes, tight corsets and billowy pirate shirts, mixed with elements of storybook characters for a purely Vivienne feel.
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Active ’80s inspired silhouettes gathered inspiration from Nastassja Kinski in “Cat People”. Laser cut pieces bore leather trimmings and animal print accents. Sequins and crop tops paid respectful homage to the decade of excess.
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Veronique’s attempt at tackling a downfallen social-status bourgeoisie seemed quite brave. It was an eyelet sanctuary in ’40s silhouette form. Stripped of their luxury glory, the fabrics and the colors kept a subdued tone.
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Comme des Garçons
And I thought the Junya Watanabe pieces were too big to fit through the door! Rei Kawakubo made it clear she LOVES red this season. The premier dress emerged like a smothering bouquet of red rose blooms, no petals in sight. 3D intertwining textures bound the models and swirled around like organic entities only to cap off in a dress that oddly resembled veins. Kawabuko certainly knows how to keep everyone excited!
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Cortazar loves a strong earthy woman who’s in tune with flow not strictness. Dark navy, forest green with just a pop of orange and red lent his collection mystery and practicality. Asymmetric and jagged hemlines made an impact without gimmicky exaggeration. He kept his woman reserved with a mystifying allure.
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Sweet school-girl uniforms received a fantastic makeover with a rebellious message. While the colors pointed to young tastes with the bubblegum pink and cornflower blue, the prints kept things surprisingly grown-up. Of course, short-hemlines were the go-to choice, but there were a number of sexy pencil skirts and well-tailored trousers. Some of the looks were a bit literal, and most women don’t want to look like a school-girl, but there were plenty of separates and less overt interpretations in the mix to incite giddiness.
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Jean Paul Gaultier
It was an epic finale for Jean Paul Gaultier’s ready-to-wear collection. A beauty pageant of worldly proportions took to the runway, with a showcase of Gaultier’s design waves over his legendary career. Of course, he started off with his classic look: the odd splicing and fusing of a menswear inspired outfit, complete in pinstripe. The heavy logo-ed athletic pieces came next before moving on to a playful jab at the fashion editors, brilliantly portraying everyone from Carine Roitfeld to Grace Coddington and Suzy Menkes. Madonna era ’80s occupied a rightful portion of the theme, complete with leather and rhinestones. To cap it all off, he sent out Mexican wrestlers, twirling in all their glory. He kept things epic, and the party he threw on his last ready-to-wear runway kept the tears at bay for just a little bit. It’s comforting to know he at least will still be continuing his couture line.
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