Blumarine wasn’t shy about short hemlines this season. To keep things classy, not sleazy, the silhouettes were looser on the shorter numbers and pinched at the waist for the long flowing frocks. My favorites have to be the few beginning pieces with the softest looking layered sweater/cardigan combos.
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Giamba‘s second collection, since its launch, followed the fantastical adventures of the ultra-mini hemline! The sister label of Giambattista Valli, developed for the youth, featured silhouettes further embodying young spirit. Maybe I’m too old for the youthfulness in this collection, but I gravitated toward the closing looks. The colorful escapades and long fluid silhouettes excited me more than the downtown hip & growing opening looks.
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Etro ventured into an almost Klimt-like “Golden phase” of prints. Bronze and earthy patterns shimmered with detailed precision. Several favorites included the pattern blocked outerwear and the long shiny dresses.
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Tod’s feels very straightforward and easy: neutral palette with flattering silhouettes. The fur sash thing made an appearance again, and I’m not digging it. Not because Tod’s did anything wrong, I just already grew tired of the trend. Otherwise, the powerful tailoring made for solid pickings.
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The fanny packs at Dondup aside, the collection boasts awesome separates that are form fitting and a bit rock’n’roll. The trouser silhouettes are extremely flattering, cutting off at the perfect point for a low ankle boot.
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Those crazy multicolor knits at Iceberg make me was to give up dedication to neutral knits. Not entirely, but for at least half the time. Color stories aside, the sleek silhouettes and flower appliques look sweet without causing tooth decay. And have you noticed the shoes?? Those bad boys transform into pseudo pant-boots with no one being the wiser!
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Luxury fabrics galore at Agnona! The clothes were very straightforward and chic, exuding elegance rather than fleeting trendiness. Shapes remained strong, alluding to confidence in style.
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There’s nothing I like more than some real soft vs. strong action and Philosophy totally provides. The long flowing Goddess dresses (because, that’s what they look like) closed out a perfectly balanced combination of menswear inspiration, Renaissance references, and ’60s flair. The retro colors were great, and the soft creams and black combos made me want to wear the stuff to a romantic country escape.
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Marco de Vincenzo played around with some stunning colors and textures this season. For starters, the colorful striped sunglasses lent to a Technicolor dreams vision. The textured fuzzy white coat paired with a knit dress and some amazing braided purple sandals looked fantastic! The fringes of color looked jarring, in a good way, and reminded me of a 3D image out of focus.
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Is it me or is Versace a lot more reserved this season? Maybe it’s due to lower temperatures winters experience nowadays. Either way, plenty of bare backs were seen in an otherwise unusually long-hemmed and covered selection. I love the toned down looks, and silhouettes focusing on clever cutouts that don’t leave the entire body exposed. The outerwear was also a huge hit for me, with the flared out bottom and a pinched in waist.
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Bally‘s sleek silhouettes are an ultimate city chic statements. Aside from those wide leg alligator pants, the collection exudes high-end elegance and even mild minimalism despite the loud color palette.
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Sportmax braced for round two with the theme of warmth and comfort. Like MaxMara the day before, the sister brand sent out wrap outerwear reminiscent of cashmere blankets. Neutral colors and flower applique brought the pieces closer to nature, but I preferred the plain wrap coats and fringed sweaters to entertain my country escape dreams.
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Emporio Armani‘s interpretation of the current gender blurring “trend” (I use quotes because the style is my go-to) is absolute perfection! There is an alignment with the fact that the clothes are still being worn by feminine figures. Little details like a floral embellishment or an extra flounce around the hips and a bit of an extra pinch at the waist perfectly molded masculine femininity. Surprisingly, I preferred the more colorful getups than all black ensembles! The genius smoky purple blazer over all red frocks stole my heart.
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