In addition to the the recap of day 3 at Milan Fashion Week SS15, it’s worth noting that gingham is a viable contender for a place at next season’s trend table!
Precise lines made an impression at Sportmax, who looked to recreate the high resolution and confidence while keeping the mood light. Simple silhouettes were amped up with an enlarged gingham-print that not only stayed true to its roots, but also came in a 3D fil coupe form and monochromatic brushstrokes. Raw, frayed edges gave a nod to “the beauty of unfinished, spontaneous clothing,” according to the show notes. The effortless chic vibe was well-captured in this pulled-together lineup.
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Anna Molinari ‘s game is romance, and she is exquisite at it. Slinky sheer tulle featured strategically placed floral appliques and embroideries while channeling youthful innocence. Molinari aptly named the collection ‘In Bloom’, and flowers were positively blooming all over the dresses and separates. Silhouettes were straightforward and atmospheric with hemlines only coming in two forms: very short and floor-skimming.
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The collection, titled A Glamorous Life and Style, focused on dressing up rather than effortlessly blending in. Ultra-feminine curve enhancing silhouettes and sensual python print coupled well with a grown-up palette of shades of white, tame turquoise and light green. Denim looked light as a feather, with floral 3D appliques elevating it past casual. This lineup was a successful marriage of sensuality and luxurious elegance.
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Welcome Giambattisa Valli’s new sister, Giamba. The premiere distinctly carved out its purpose: to appeal to a younger clientele. Sheer baby doll dresses, short hemlines and a palette of flirty pink, black and white didn’t completely rebel against Valli’s signature embellishments. Overall, this was a successful launch of very wearable looks.
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Marco de Vincenzo
Years of behind the scenes work at Fendi earned Marco de Vincenzo more than a few badges in craftsmanship. Dense blocks of glistening, swaying fringe comprise the checked ensembles opening the show and a multi-color checked python coat stunned in a very well executed line-up.
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On first look, this seems like a music festival-inspired lineup, but Veronica Etro sets the record straight with her Bohemian desert-dwelling artist as the inspiration point. The clothes are meant to evoke the roots of craftsmanship and self-sustainability. Brilliant patterns and colors are sun-faded and given an embroidery treatment of beads and fringe. Loose silhouettes and billowy ponchos call on a Native American vibe while the spirit remains that of the ‘70s.
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The collection title “Catch the Wind!” went hand in hand with the billowy and airy silhouettes containing as much sturdy substance as a ship’s sail. A dusty colorful palette evoked lazy days lounging on the Mediterranean.
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Southern California, with its intense bright colors and preppy attire, served as inspiration for this season’s presentation. Short skirts and slim and neat silhouettes ruled the runway, with narrow pants standing out as critical pieces.
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Tod’s delivered a lovely and solid line-up inspired by a neat and relaxing garden. Loose silhouettes predominantly featured leather as the material of choice. Despite such a rigid material, the looks remained neat, structured and light in a muted palette of chalky tones.
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Stefania Bandiera stepped up as a design guru at this season’s Les Copains presentation. A refreshing elegance surrounded the pieces this season, with sporty elements lightly re-interpreted in a more dainty approach (case in point: light parka dress with drawstring cinching its hemline).
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Donatella tried her hand at stripping down to the basics this season. Keeping a less-fussy customer in mind, she minimized her emphasis on loud embellishments to concentrate on clean tailoring. Stunning two piece suits, ‘60s inspired shift dresses and angular splicing and color blocking produced a collection that maintained its bombshell appeal despite the inclination toward ease.
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Despite all the talk about Plein’s grandiose runway production consisting of a dystopian underwater scene, the clothes still captivated attention. Head to toe crystal embellishments might not be for everyone, but some of the gowns certainly held enough appeal to be considered for the red carpet. Sparkles aside, Plein sent out several girly silhouettes in a rainbow of intense primary colors as well as in a monochromatic palette.
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Superbly easy silhouettes translated into a wearable collection with many accented details for charm. A soft palette of ivory and whites was punctuated by royal purple tones and mustard yellow. The collection hit all the right notes, with the exception of a black leather dress that felt a bit too heavy and bulky.
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