London has wrapped up and we’re moving on to Milan next. Before doing that, here’s the final day recap of a very exciting London Fashion Week season.
Designers Helen Lawrence, Louise Alsop and Ed Marler unveiled their collection at Fashion East’s emerging designer showcase. Lawrence opened with a sexy collection of patchwork knits, immaculate layering, and slinky knits. She carried the line through with raw edges and a play on color blocking. Alsop delivered a lineup of shredded loose silhouettes and gauze-like dresses, with a punk-inspired sticker print adorning her fraying shorter numbers. Marler turned to a glamorous pirate as inspiration. Layered frocks in loose silhouettes and wild colors and prints reminisced of Jean Paul Gaultier.
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Osman looked to evoke escapism and opulence in his spring collection. Sleek, architectural silhouettes were accented with pearl-beaded designs, swaying fringe and patchwork. Ponchos had their moment as the ultimate travel-ready staple.
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The motif at Anya Hindmarch’s presentation riffed on looked to school-girl days and its obsession with customization. Fun pencil shapes, sticker-like prints and clever quotes elevated bags into anthropomorphized beings.
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Simone Rocha focused on a young and wildly romantic collection. Despite the dark ensembles that opened the show, the silhouettes were kept sweet with scalloped hems and cute, fuzzy detailing on hems. Stunning sheer vestments provided a soft surface for the garden of blooms that referenced her show’s “youth, beauty and love.”
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Exaggerated silhouettes bore impeccable tailoring in a color palette drawing on modesty and tameness. Fitting, considering the inspiration is church clergy attire. The collection emerged as reserved yet extremely active.
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Despite keeping their inspiration board sparse this season, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida sent out a line-up of dark attire with a very precise feel and message. A grungy, PJ Harvey-esque attitude ruled the runway filled with sheer, layered dresses and frayed dark denim.
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Unique hemlines have made their appearance more than a few times at London Fashion Week, and Tata Naka dominated with scalloped edges. A relatively basic monochrome palette with modern silhouettes teetering on the edge of fitted and oversized introduced the presentation. The unique scalloped details weren’t constrained to the hems only. The curvy edge slivered down the front of a jacket and skirt of a bubblegum pink ensemble, adding an extremely modern feel to a color that may otherwise look dated. Floral print and more colorful notes closed off the show, with a few pastel pieces reminiscing of an inspired arts-and-craft project.
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Emilio de la Morena
The ‘unabashed sexuality’ of Ibiza in the ‘80s received scrutiny at Morena’s show. Metallic corsets and loose bottoms captured the moments of the ‘80s club scene immaculately. Several jacquard pieces in a faint, tight polka dot print had the role of sleeker counterparts. A few times the bustiers looked a bit constricting and the looser dresses unraveled a fit that might not flatter anyone. Overall, the collection was a solid nod to the passion of the ‘80s club scene.
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All the bells and whistles of tinsel town blew at once at the Ashish show this season. The clothes were at a joyous, happy rave, carrying the practice of extreme glitz to new levels. A rainbow of sequin adorned dresses and separates only took a break to introduce sparkly distressed denim and backward jeans. Slinky dresses were anything but casual with their high-wattage gleam, giving all party girls a great excuse to party harder.
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A street cast bevy of model citizens wore more than clothes at the Meadhamm Kirchhoff show. The designer duo made quick work of youthful expression, individuality and a nostalgic sense of freedom that attire brings. Emma Arvida Bystrom, a feminist blogger, was rightfully chosen as the closing walker in this brave collection. Elements that screamed of strength and consistency punctuated the playful sense of youthful experimentation. Strong silhouettes, plethora of tulle and prints that gave each model a persona resonated with the idea of power through fashion.
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Structured but loose silhouettes dominated while sticking to a monochrome palette.
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A funky line-up which is worthy of Nicki Minaj’s next outfit mixed with more wearable items such as beautiful crocheted dresses. Barbie pinks and cute images of fuzzy kittens were too far out for wide-market acceptance but still provided as much pleasure and happiness as grumpy cat does.
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See by Chloé
Perfectly girly pieces in preppy polka dot and horizontal stripe patterns reminisced of summer in the Hamptons. The silhouettes were kept young and fresh, with a few boyfriend-inspired pieces making it into the mix.
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An eclectic line-up of silks and jersey fabrics bore designs inspired by Moroccan tile. A robust execution of extremely wearable and unique pieces.
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Architectural inspiration overtook Edeline Lee this season, right down to her collaboration with paint company Little Green for the color palette. Smooth, curved edges emerged in the folds of her structured pieces. The elbows of the sleeves were slashed to form two distinct pieces overlapping and silhouettes were kept pleasantly tame despite the dramatic tailoring. It’s like stepping into a pre-war detailed freshly restored building: detail-rich yet simple enough to imagine yourself in no matter what your taste.
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H by Hakaan Yildirim
Our fragile ecosystem has been experiencing turmoil for quite some time now, and Hakaan Yildrim chose the bees to display our relationship with nature. Silhouettes reminiscent of beekeeper outfits with structure paraded in bright colored hues. Hexagonal designs, inspired by the honeycomb, were portrayed brilliantly alongside black and yellow striped pieces that bore a bit more kitsch factor.
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